Edmund White’s The Flaneur: A Stroll through the Paradoxes of Paris (2001); or, another night of insomnia, another short book

511krl1ZVELEarly on, White offers a hostage to fortune when he quotes Loius Sébastien Mercier:

Like a true flâneur, Mercier found his ‘research’, disorganized and fragmented as it might be, endlessly absorbing. As he put it, ‘I haven’t been bored once since I started writing books. If I’ve bored my readers, may they forgive me, since I myself have been hugely amused’. (35)

However, White knows how to create the impression of flattering his reader when really he is flattering no-one but himself. Describing Théophile Gautier’s attendance at a monthly meeting of Le Club de Hachichins, who basically ate huge lumps of jellied hash, he writes:

All the signs of being totally, deliriously, even dangerously stoned, so well known to my readers, were already familiar to the arty denizens of Hôtel de Lauzun. (132)

He then goes on to quote the position Baudelaire, who likely only took hashish once or twice, in the great wine vs. hash debate that raged through probably very few fashionable salons:

he compared hasish  unfavourably to wine, which he thought was more ‘democratic’ because more cheaper and more widely available… To be precise he praised both wine and hashish for promoting ‘the excessive poetic development of mankind’, but he pointed out that ‘wine exalts the will, hashish annihilates it. Wine is a support to the body, hashish is a weapon for suicide. Wine makes people good and friendly, hashish isolates. One is hard-working, so to speak, whereas the other is essentially lazy. … Wine is for those people who work and deserve to drink it. Hashish belongs to the category of solitary pleasures; it is made for the unhappy idle. Wine is useful, it produces fruitful results. Hashish is useless and dangerous.’ (133-4).

And to end on a bitchy note, after several pages snarkily but not inaccurately lambasting the lifeless artworks of Gustave Moreau, he concludes the chapter:

Moreau once declared: ‘I love my art so much that I’ll be happy only when I make it for myself’. His wish came true. (144)

With luck I’ll sleep tonight…

 

 

 

Paris noir et noir – and hardly morbid at all

Richard Wright was cremated at Père Lachaise.

wright

But before that happened, he used to enjoy hanging out at the Café Tournon with Chester Himes. (You could also find James Baldwin and Ollie Harrington there, and it was where Duke Ellington made his Paris debut.)

wright a

wright b

 

 

 

 

 

 

Although the management are only interested in letting you know that Joseph Roth lived there. I guess they figure the legend of an unholy drinker is bad for business. (Did you like the literary gag there?)

roth

Somewhere on this street, Chester Himes used to have an apartment.

himes a

himes

 

 

 

 

 

 

But when John A. Williams was visiting Paris and dropped by to see him, he found Himes had moved out, leaving the flat to Melvin Van Peebles.

We found Himes still keeping good company in the unexpected book department of Le Bon Marché, the first ever department store.

himes b

Another African-American in Paris:

baker

And Harry’s Bar. Where Humphrey Bogart used to hang out.

harry's bar

Their margarita is a damn fine margarita…

harry's bar inside

…but it is not as good a margarita as their mojito is a mojito.

Paris – mostly revolutionary, mostly morbid, but with a hint of nudity

This statue stands on the spot where the guillotine was erected to execute Louis XVI in January 1793. guillotine a Somewhere near these gates, the guillotine was erected to execute Marie-Antoinette in October 1793. guillotine b Jean Sylvain Bailly was an early leader of the French Revolution and the first mayor of Paris. He was guillotined during the Reign of Terror. guillotine In April 1834, a workers uprising broke out against new laws limiting the activities of Republican organisations such as the Society of the Rights of Man. 13,000 police took four days to quell the uprising. On the Rue Transnonain, police massacred all the residents of one apartment building. transnonain Not even a fucking plaque. rue_transnonain_le_15_de_avril_1834 Honoré Daumier’s lithograph Rue Transnonain, le 15 Avril 1834 appeared in the journal La Caricature. When the original was discovered, he was imprisoned for six months. In the the Musée d’Orsay, we found Maximilien Luce’s Une rue de Paris en mai 1871. painting We also, I kid you not, saw a hipster find a portrait of a 19th century man with a similar beard to his own and take a selfie in front of it. The whole city groaned. In spring 1871, the last of the communards hid out in the Père Lachaise cemetery. The victorious Armée versaillaise put one hundred and forty-seven Fédérés up against the wall and shot them and threw their corpses in a trench by the wall. communards communards a Opposite this simple memorial is the grave of Marx’s daughter Laura and her husband Paul Lafargue, who wrote among many other things the excellent The Right to Be Lazy. In old age, they committed suicide rather than be a burden on the revolution. lafargues a     lafargues           Nestor Makno, the Ukrainian anarcho-communist revolutionary was cremated here, too. makhno   I guess I’m wilfully mistranslating/misunderstanding the inscription on this. mistranslation On a cheerier note, this is the bar where Lenin and Trotsky used to hang out in 1915/16 to play chess. lenin I guess it was a little less blandly bourgeois back then. The current management are less inclined to recall Bolshevik grandmasters than to boast that Pierce Brosnan once ate there. Lenin, mind you, can pop up in the least expected places (as, indeed, can Stalin). lenin penis

Paris – mostly science-fictional, mostly morbid

The grave of Georges Méliès...
The grave of Georges Méliès…
...and stumbled upon by chance the next day, the site of Théâtre Robert-Houdin
…and stumbled upon by chance the next day, the site of Théâtre Robert-Houdin
The graves of François Marie Charles Fourier and of
The graves of François Marie Charles Fourier and of
Claude Henri de Rouvroy, comte de Saint-Simon, utopian socialists both
Claude Henri de Rouvroy, comte de Saint-Simon, utopian socialists both,
of Louis-Sébastien Mercier,
of Louis-Sébastien Mercier,
author of L'An 2440, rêve s'il en fut jamais (1770),
author of L’An 2440, rêve s’il en fut jamais (1770),
and of Gérard de Nerval
and of Gérard de Nerval
and of Nadar (Gaspard-Félix Tournachon), pioneer of aeronautics, photography and, perhaps unsurprisingly, aerial photography.
and of Nadar (Gaspard-Félix Tournachon), pioneer of aeronautics, photography and, perhaps unsurprisingly, aerial photography.
Fellow balloon pioneers, Joseph Crocé-Spinelli and Théodore Henri Sivel, fared less well,
Fellow balloon pioneers, Joseph Crocé-Spinelli and Théodore Henri Sivel, fared less well,
reaching 28,000 feet but dying in the attempt.
reaching 28,000 feet but dying in the attempt.
A plaque for, not the  grave, of Vercors (Jean Bruller), author of Borderline, The Imsurgents and Sylva.
A plaque for, not the grave of, Vercors (Jean Bruller), author of Borderline, The Insurgents and Sylva.
Back to graves. Jean-Marie-Mathias-Philippe-Auguste, comte de Villiers de l'Isle-Adam, author of The Future Eve.
Back to graves. Jean-Marie-Mathias-Philippe-Auguste, comte de Villiers de l’Isle-Adam, author of The Future Eve.
Raymond Roussel, author of Impressions d'Afrique and of Locus Solus.
Raymond Roussel, author of Impressions d’Afrique and of Locus Solus.
Émile Souvestre, author of The World As It Will Be.
Émile Souvestre, author of The World As It Will Be.
Paul Éluard, who did not write sf, but whose poetry collection Capitale de la douleur features heavily in Godard's Alphaville.
Paul Éluard, who did not write sf but whose poetry collection Capitale de la douleur features heavily in Godard’s Alphaville.
And, of course, Oscar Wilde.
And, of course, Oscar Wilde.
Étienne-Gaspard Robertson,
Étienne-Gaspard Robertson,
physicist, stage magician,
physicist, stage magician,
balloonist (inevitably) and
balloonist (inevitably) and
phantasmagoria pioneer.
phantasmagoria pioneer.
The Tomb of the Biologically Divergent Working Class.
The Tomb of the Biologically Divergent Working Class.
A little something...
A little something…
...for fans of...
…for fans of…
Harry Potter.
Harry Potter.
Some good old-fashioned surveillance.
Some good old-fashioned surveillance…
...and a remind of Muybridge.
…and a reminder of Muybridge.
An sf shop,
An sf shop,
an sf bar and...
an sf bar and…
...a bunker anti-zombies.
…a bunker anti-zombies.
And this is where we stayed. The hotel where Breton and Soupault (before his expulsion from the Surrealists for pursuing individualist and stupid literary projects) invented automatic writing and co-wrote The Magnetic Fields.
And this is where we stayed. The hotel where Breton and Soupault (before his expulsion from the Surrealists for pursuing individualist and stupid literary projects) invented automatic writing and co-wrote The Magnetic Fields.
Not just in the hotel, mind, but in the actual fucking room where they did so.
Not just in the hotel, mind, but in the actual fucking room where they did so.
The room with this creepy-ass shit directly above the bed.
The room with this creepy-ass shit directly above the bed.

le hipster parisienne 2015 – un essai photographique dans le français execrable

dans le matin, le hipster parisienne salue le soleil  et chills sur sa balcon (sans underpants)
dans le matin, le hipster parisienne salue le soleil de son balcon, sans le underpants
après un petit déjeuner tardif, le hipster parisienne...
après un petit déjeuner tardif, le hipster parisienne dans le underpants comicale aime à contester …
...avec ses amis imaginaires: qui a ordonné le espresso Guillermo?
…avec ses amis (imaginaires): qui ordonné l’espresso Guillermo?
le hipster parisienne dédaigne ironiquement chaussures afin de cacher à son engagement à consommer des produits masculins de toilettage
le hipster parisienne disdainé (ironiquement) les shoes en order de concealé son passion à consommer des produits masculins de toilettage
le hipster parisienne, il transpire, est...
le hipster parisienne, il transpire, est…
insufférable totalement (sans underpants)
…insufférable totalement. Sans (ou même avec) le underpants.

Monday morning in Cameron’s wasteland

In 1972 a crack commando unit was sent to prison by a military court for a crime they didn’t commit. These men promptly escaped from a maximum security stockade to the Los Angeles underground. Today, still wanted by the government, they survive as soldiers of fortune. If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find them, maybe you can hire the A-Team.

Sadly, just when we need them most, five years of austerity – based on a huge lie designed to redistribute wealth in entirely the wrong direction – have hit even our heroes hard. Pity the fools.

austerity a-team

Rail privatisers conduct bizarre cloning experiment in Bristol

tom1The privatisation of public utilities and services in Britain has been a disaster for everyone apart from those given carte blanche to loot the public purse. Oligopolistic consolidation. Unemployment annd precarity. Taxes paid more or less directly to shareholders as dividends. The undermining of democracy. The ‘greed is good’ excesses of the 1980s, the TINA lies of the 1990s, the austerity bullshit of the new millennium. The preening arrogance of the corporate elites and their political lackeys. No scandal seems to have the power to even shock any more, let alone lead to criminal investigation or – can you still even imagine? – jail time.

That might be about to change.

In Bristol, evidence has been found of the most profound malfeasance, the crossing of a boundary that we can all surely agree is a step too far.

The cloning of Thomas the Tank Engine.

tom2Look closely.

Is there not something sinister in their fixed grins that speaks of our age?

The mandated performance of individuality.

Of joy.     tom3

Look closely.

Into their eyes.

Behold the Abyss staring back.